How to Care for Cashmere: Pilling, Washing & Long-Term Garment Care

October 14, 2026

Understanding Cashmere Fibre

Cashmere comes from the fine undercoat of Cashmere goats, primarily bred in Mongolia, Inner Mongolia, and the high-altitude regions of Central Asia. The fibres are graded by diameter (measured in microns) and staple length — the longer and finer the fibre, the softer and more durable the resulting yarn.

What to know as a buyer:

Ply refers to how many threads are twisted together. A 2-ply cashmere garment is notably more resilient than a single-ply piece and holds its shape better over time.
Grade A cashmere uses fibres under 15.5 microns in diameter. Most premium knitwear falls in the 15–16 micron range — fine enough to be soft against skin, robust enough to last.
Weight matters seasonally. Lightweight cashmere (around 100–150g) is suited to layering; mid-weight (200–300g) works year-round.

Higher-quality cashmere does pill less — but all cashmere pills to some degree in early wear. This is normal, not a defect.

Pilling: What It Is and What to Do About It

Pilling occurs when short fibres work loose from the yarn and tangle into small balls on the surface. It is most common in areas of friction: underarms, elbows, cuffs, and where a bag strap sits.

Why it happens

Friction during wear (against jacket linings, rough surfaces, seatbelts)
Washing agitation
Early wear of a new garment as loose surface fibres shed

What to do

Use a cashmere comb or fabric shaver. A cashmere comb (with fine metal teeth) is gentler and preferred for regular maintenance. A fabric shaver is faster for heavier pilling — use it on a flat surface and keep the head flat against the fabric to avoid pulls.
Work gently and in one direction with a comb. Do not scrub.
Do not pull pills off by hand. This weakens the weave and creates thin patches.
After de-pilling a new garment two or three times, it tends to settle and pill far less.

Tip: Minimise friction during wear. Avoid rough outerwear linings against your cashmere, and alternate which pieces you wear regularly to allow fibres to recover.

Washing Cashmere Correctly

Cashmere should be washed infrequently — after every three to five wears under normal conditions, or when visibly soiled. Overwashing accelerates fibre breakdown.

Hand washing (recommended)

Fill a clean basin with cool or lukewarm water (max 30°C / 86°F). Hot water causes irreversible shrinkage.
Add a small amount of specialist cashmere or wool wash — roughly a teaspoon. Avoid standard detergents, fabric conditioners, or anything containing enzymes, which degrade protein fibres.
Submerge the garment and gently press and squeeze. Do not rub, twist, or wring.
Leave to soak for up to 10 minutes.
Rinse thoroughly in cool water of the same temperature as the wash. Temperature changes cause felting.
To remove excess water, press the garment gently against the basin — never wring. Then roll it in a clean dry towel and press firmly.
Reshape immediately and lay flat to dry on a fresh towel or drying rack, away from direct heat or sunlight.

Machine washing

Some modern cashmere can be machine washed. If the care label permits it:

Use a mesh laundry bag.
Select the wool or delicates cycle (cold, low spin).
Use a wool-specific detergent.
Never tumble dry.

When in doubt, hand wash.

Drying and Reshaping

Always dry flat. Hanging cashmere wet stretches it permanently — shoulders drop, sleeves elongate.
Reshape the garment to its original dimensions immediately after washing, before it begins to dry.
Allow 24 hours to dry fully before wearing or storing. Storing damp cashmere causes mildew and fibre damage.
Keep away from radiators, tumble dryers, and direct sunlight.

Brushing Between Wears

A cashmere or soft-bristle garment brush used after each wear serves two purposes: it removes surface lint and debris before it can work into the fibres, and it gently realigns the nap of the knit.

Brush lightly in one direction — usually downward, following the direction of the knit.
Allow the garment to air for 20–30 minutes after wearing before brushing and folding it away. This lets body moisture disperse.

Storage

How you store cashmere is as important as how you wash it.

Fold, do not hang. Hanging causes knitted cashmere to stretch and lose shape. Fold and store flat, or roll loosely for travel.
Use breathable storage. Cotton or linen garment bags protect against dust while allowing airflow. Avoid plastic bags, which trap moisture.
Guard against moths. Cashmere is a premium food source for moth larvae. Use cedar blocks or lavender sachets — replace them annually as the scent fades. For long-term off-season storage, a sealed cedar chest or an airtight container with cedar lining is most effective.
Clean before storing. Never store cashmere unwashed at the end of a season. Body oils and traces of food attract moths and cause fibre degradation. Even if a piece looks clean, wash it before putting it away for summer.
Rotate your pieces. Resting fibres between wears allows them to recover and extends garment life significantly.

Minor Repair

Small holes and snags are common in long-term cashmere ownership and are almost always repairable.

Snags (a loop of yarn pulled to the surface): use a blunt tapestry needle to gently ease the pulled loop back through to the wrong side of the fabric. Do not cut it — this causes a run.
Small holes: a competent tailor or specialist knitwear repairer can invisibly mend cashmere using a technique called reweaving or Swiss darning. For a garment worth preserving, this is always worth the cost.
Dropped stitches: take to a specialist. Attempting to fix these without experience risks a ladder running through the knit.

When to Use a Specialist Cleaner

Not all cashmere care should be done at home. Take a garment to a professional dry cleaner or specialist knitwear cleaner when:

The care label explicitly states dry clean only.
There is a set stain (wine, oil, ink) that home washing has not removed.
The garment has significant structural damage — holes, runs, or lost seams.
The piece is heavily embellished, has non-cashmere components (leather trim, woven panels), or you are simply unsure.

When choosing a cleaner, ask specifically whether they have experience with fine knitwear. A general dry cleaner using harsh solvents can damage cashmere; a specialist using wet cleaning or gentle solvent processes will not.